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I then casually apply some weathering powder from Tamiya-I use the Model Masters compacts that have three colors each to them.
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I then get out the airbrush, and build up layers of various browns (I like Reaper Master Series Leather Brown for this, with Pallid Wych Flesh mixed in to lighten it) around the boots, knees, and depending on the pose, on the elbows. I thin a bit of Typhus Corrosion and paint it around the boots and ankles of the models. Once I’ve done the Legion markings (always freehand!), it’s time to finish up weathering the model. Any rivets or especially sharp points get a dot of Ironbreaker-I’m very conservative with highlighting gold using silver since it starts to look silver if overdone. I then highlight it again with Vallejo Brass and then an edge highlight of Vallejo Gold. It’s about 35% Brown Ink, 20% Red Ink, 20% Reikland Fleshshade (which is ultimately a similar color and alters the surface tension of the ink), and about 15% Lahmian Medium (which kills the high gloss of the inks). The gold is Vallejo Brass, washed with a proprietary mix I call “gold wash.” It’s a mixture of Brown and Red ink from Reaper Master Series, Lahmian Medium, and Reikland Fleshshade, then cut with about 10% water per volume. On any swords or axes, I’ll touch a tiny bit of Blood For the Blood God to the striking surface, and pull it back as thin lines on the flat of the blade. A final highlight of Ironbreaker would definitely work here, though.
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I tend to favor darker silver on my miniatures.
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The silver bits are Leadbelcher, followed by a Nuln Oil wash, and then a Leadbelcher highlight. If it’s a particularly sharp edge, I’ll touch it with Dawnstone on the highest points, but over-highlighting black leads to it looking grey instead. I just use Skavenblight Dinge on its own as a highlight-less is really more when it comes to highlighting black. At this point, I also paint all the gun casings, cabling, and the right kneepad black as well. To maintain some variety between models in the units, I select various armor plates to be black instead of teal. If it’s a particularly large or thick black line, I’ll line the inside of it with Leadbelcher and highlight that with Ironbreaker. Sybarite Green on the bottom edge of that line to create a chipped effect. I then put a highlight of 50/50 Kabalite and I pick some spots where I want the paint to be chipped, and make very fine black lines. The armor could be done at this point, except it needs to be dirtied up. If I’ve overdone the highlights, I’ll glaze it with an even mix of Lahmian Medium and Coelia Greenshade to alter the wash’s surface tension. To define the hardest edges of the armor, I use a final edge highlight of Sybarite Green on its own. I make sure to blend that down back into the plates so it’s a soft transition to the hard edges. I then mix up 50/50 Kabalite Green and Sybarite Green, and add a relatively thick edge highlight to the armor. Sometimes I have to go back and re-line the recesses with Coelia Greenshade, but that’s not usually a big deal. 02mm nozzle on the airbrush and carefully layer on Kabalite Green on its own. Next up, I wash the whole model with Coelia Greenshade. I don’t worry about keeping any of the basecoat showing-the intermediary step before of solid Incubi Darkness is there to just make this step go on smoother. I then airbrush a coat of 50/50 Kabalite Green and Incubi Darkness on. When Incubi Darkness came out as a spray a couple months ago, I started using that instead and cutting the black primer step out. With that in mind, I start every model off from a black primer coat, followed by an airbrushed basecoat of Incubi Darkness. I was always very resistant to getting an airbrush, but once I bought one, I realized I’d been very much a curmudgeonly old man about “how things were supposed to be” and now see the airbrush as an indispensable hobby tool. One of my goals with the project has become to hone my skills with an airbrush. That means lots of Legion Tactical Squads and Sons of Horus Reaver Squads, predominantly mounted in Rhinos, supported by dreadnoughts and predators. The only real guideline is that I want the army to ultimately be a mirror of my Black Legion army, and contain a similar mix of units in similar proportions. I don’t have a “set” army list in mind for the Sons of Horus, or even a long-term goal in mind for them-I’ll add to them as the mood strikes. When the Horus Heresy stuff came out, I knew I had to do a Heresy-era version of them, and thus did this project begin. I own around 10,000 points of Black Legionnaires, and while they weren’t my first army, it remains the oldest army I still own. The Sons of Horus project actually predated the beginning of this blog.